Spring Summer 2009For Spring Summer 2009 Ann-Sofie Back continues her investigation of celebrity culture, this time using plastic surgery and liposuction as an unlikely point of reference. A series of disco dresses are cut and stretched with drawstrings resembling the processes involved in a face-lift, while clasps are based on the staples used to hold skin in place during recovery. The dresses represent a striking advance for Ann-Sofie, although conceptual in origins the results in cream and mint chiffon are more conventionally beautiful than ever before. This area of the collection includes more commercial jersey dresses and also a bikini. Continuing in this new direction, frills are used throughout the collection. Frills are traditionally used as a device to create a sense of youthfulness. The frills however are broken signifying Ann-Sofie’s observation of failed glamour. They are produced in black and grey in a performance cupro fabric in dresses, skirts and tops. A bolero jacket in a silk wool mix, uses the inside lining as the lapel and features Capri pants to match. Other unstructured suiting includes an oversized jacket pulled in drastically at the waist, creating a surprising yet flattering silhouette. Trousers also play with construction, the waist appearing as if the fabric has been stretched over and behind the waistband in viscose crepe. An otherwise sombre colour palette of white, cream, taupe and black accented with mint, pistachio and ice-cream yellow are interspersed with a number of prints. The paparazzi print uses an image of a flash while a horizontal stripe is skewed at the bust on jersey dresses, skirts and tops. Lastly a print resembling the mark-up drawings for drastic lipo is evidence of Ann-Sofie’s omnipresent use of humour in her collections.The collection includes a capsule collection of jewellery that uses piercings as details by Sheefun for Ann-Sofie Back.
